Oil Pressure Gauge install
Hey guys, just finished installing a couple of gauges, just thought i'd share a bit of info and pics for anyone thinking to do the same.
Started with the oil pressure gauge, this was a hastle and a half, be prepared to drop your oil 3 or 4 (or 11 in my case) times to get it all sealed up and working...
I used castrol magnatec 10w40. the gauge is a calibre brand. They are the ones that supercheap sell, but dont let that throw you off, they are GREAT quality. i found an oil filter sandwich on e-bay, basically it sits between the block and filter and has 3 ports on it. (most commonly for oil pressure, oil temp, and feed line for a turbo - i plan on using 2 of these).
Step one is to drop your oil, sump plug is a 14mm hex, undo it untill you see these two:
(dont expect it to be a clean job either. haha
take off your old oil filter too:
Step two: take off the plastic guard from inside of the driver's side wheel.
should be left with this:
Step three: line up the sandwich and make sure the sender clears any moving parts (mine was pretty close to the driver's side drive shaft, but still clears it by about 50mm.
tighten the extension fitting in the middle, its about 20mm i think, just use a shifter...
Now this is important. before you go any further, double, triple, and quadruple check everything is tight. replace the new filter, sump plug and new oil, start the car up and give it a few revs (light revs when the engine's cold will determine if you've got a leak, at this point the oil pressure approaches 110-120psi - the highest it will be under any condition. if youve got a leak, make sure both o-rings (filter to sandwich, sandwich to block) are installed and in good condition.
From there, use about 3-4m of medium gauge wire to go from the signal terminal of the sender, through the firewall, and up to where you plan to put the gauge. for the other terminal, use the same gauge wire and attach it to a secure and solid ground (use a volt meter/circuit tester to make sure.) mine went onto the intake manifold. (dont ask)
Then the gauge should have 5 wires:
1. signal from the sender (see above)
3. 12v ignition signal (coming out of the key cylinder is the best wire to tap into - again, check with a volt gauge)
4. 12v dash lighting (anything that turns on with the lights, i wired mine into the fog lights - sorry ST owners muwahaha)
5. constant 12v source (straight off the battery is best )
as some of you might know, i had a few problems at this stage with my faulty sender. sorted now...
once thats done, your wiring should look a mess, like this:
well not as bad as that, ive got 3 gauges worth of wiring running under there.
clean that mess up with some cable ties and insulation. (forgot to take a pic at this stage - but trust me it looks pro.)
Now my interior looks like this:
from the top: voltage, oil pressure, boost/vacuum pressure behind the steering wheel, and next to the turbo timer.
oil pressure gauge should read about 70-80psi on cold idle - up to about 110psi when driving cold, then when warm, should drop down to about 30psi (any less than about 20 and your using the wrong oil or you've got a problem) then up to about 90-100psi...
boost gauge only reads vacuum atm (obviously). goes from 20inhg up to 0psi (hopefully up to 7psi soon ) depending on throttle. the gauge is fully mechanical, a signal line hooks up to the intake manifold ( i teed into the break booster and put a vacuum manifold on - ill use this for the bov and wastegate too - read about them here)
as an interesting side note, the problem all of us manual x-trailers have with the laggy throttle (should see the revs increase slightly when changing gears), isn't our throttle at all. cos when my foot drops off the throttle, it jumps straight back down to 20inhg in about half a second. this proves that our throttle must indeed act like a mechanical throttle, and snaps shut, causing the vacuum that's perfect for a great BOV activation (this was a worry of mine, with our electronic throttle). so yeh feel free to open up some more discussion on that one here and here...
So yeh all in all, it was a great sucess, now ive got some cool looking but very practical gauges to amuse me now.
Admin Edit: Number plates naughty boy!
Last edited by jalalski, 28/Jul/2009, 8:49 pm
GT2860rs, Ems stinger, tial external gate, 3" exhaust, 10psi and ~200kw @ all fours. Koya drifteks w/245/50 rubber, 70mm lowered springs, slotted rotors and painted calipers :)
28/Jul/2009, 8:10 pm
Re: Oil Pressure Gauge install
Well done Cam.
Finally got it all working.
Mate you should copy this thread and post a DIY.
Old-2008 T31, ST Series1
is my X Trail
29/Jul/2009, 7:10 am