Ed Cook
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Re: LAST MINUTE THRASH
Joel
My original scraper gave me the same issues in James' motor
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10/14/2009, 6:04 am
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Mike Bonsanti
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Re: LAST MINUTE THRASH
quote:
GTX Joel wrote:
Well, I started it up this morning and it leaked just the same as before. Skipped work today to fix it, had it apart and back together 3 times and it still leaks. I am running out of ideas (and time).
Same block, same crank, same seal bridge, 2 different seals, 3 different instalations, (the last 2 very carefull). Cut .015 off the feet of the seal bridge to increase the crush on the seal, that didn't help.
The crank scraper is the only thing different, so tommorrow I am going to remove the scraper and see if that make any difference. Other than that I am running out of ideas. 
Sheila baked 2 pies and batch of cookies for me to bring to the race. She is getting concerned that I might eat them all myself. 
I'm sure open to ideas on this exon valdez-mobile. 
Here are a couple of things to look for.
-On these motors, it seems as though the orange colored seal works better than the black. Also, if you are using an overseas sourced crank (Eagle, Ohio , etc) the knurling on the seal surface is so aggressive that it winds up tearing up the seal. But usually this will happen over time and not right away as you are stating.
I have had to machine a groove in the seal bridge for better drainage when using the Indy billet sluminum bridge. A friend of mine had a similar problem to yours and was using the Indy retainer- cut some grooves with a die grinder and no more leaks. Also take a hard look at the scraper, it shouldn't be allowed to "trap" oil between the cap and seal retainer. If it does, you need to free up this area by cutting a groove or drilling some holes in the back part of the scraper. As Ed said I might have had some problems with the scraper in the 526. I didn't have the problem in the later builds with scrapers, so that might have been an issue with the crank seal surface knurling. I have been having the crank grinder redo that surface for me on later builds.
Can you spin up the pump with a drill (with the trans, clutch and flywheel out) and see any leakage, or does the motor have to run to leak??
Feel free to contact me if I can be of any help.. Oil leaks can be very frustrating..
MB
973-267-4364 shop.
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10/14/2009, 7:11 am
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TomCannon
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Re: LAST MINUTE THRASH
What kind of jizz are you using Joel?
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10/14/2009, 7:50 am
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GTX Joel
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Re: LAST MINUTE THRASH
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys!
I am using the Mopar Performance seal retainer and black seal. 10w30 oil, non synthetic. It is an Eagle crank. All the same stuff that I used in '06 and it didn't leak then. So I am definetely thinking now that the scraper is causing the problem. Tonight after work, I am going to take a closer look at that, and probably ventilate the end of the scraper.
Dave just called me, the race is being postponed till October 30-31 due to weather. Lucky break for me, that gives me time to get this fixed, install the new secret weapon, and maybe even test it at the track this weekend if it doesen't snow! 
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10/14/2009, 10:05 am
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Ed Cook
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Re: LAST MINUTE THRASH
Joel
James just informed me that he knows your secret and he's not sure it can be called a weapon? See you in two weeks good luck with the leak.
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10/14/2009, 5:11 pm
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GTX Joel
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Re: LAST MINUTE THRASH
The secret that James knows about is barely a weapon, so I can understand his skepticism.
But he has no clue about my new improved Weapon of Mass Destruction! It is designed to annihilate Fords and Chevy’s, but will work equally well on Mopars. 
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10/21/2009, 2:49 pm
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haha just kidding Joel 
